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Seasonal Ingredients

What chefs should be buying in September

The month where summer produce is still good and autumn produce has arrived early. Use both.

Sava Marević

Chef & Founder of savamander

24 August 2026 · 5 min read

Figs, porcini, grapes and small pumpkins on a dark steel surface
Illustration: savamander — not media from the story subject

The trap in September is buying autumn too early. Pumpkins are in the market from the first week and most of them are watery and flavourless until the nights get properly cold. Meanwhile the last tomatoes and peppers of the season are the best they've been all year, and half the kitchens I know have already taken them off the menu because the calendar says autumn.

In season

What’s in season — September

  • Figs

    Season
    Late August – early October
    Best regions
    Dalmatia, Puglia, Provence, Extremadura
    How chefs are using it
    Raw with cured meat, roasted whole with bay, or reduced hard into a paste for cheese service.
    Availability
    Widely available, peaks mid-September
    Storage tip
    Never in the fridge below 8°C. Single layer, stem up, use within two days.
    Suppliers
    Local market growers, Dalmatian smallholders

    If a fig doesn't leak slightly when you press it, send it back. Firm figs are picked early and they never ripen properly afterwards.

  • Porcini

    Season
    September – November
    Best regions
    Bosnian and Croatian highlands, Piedmont, Bavaria, Slovenian forests
    How chefs are using it
    Sliced raw when perfect, grilled thick, or dried for stock. Do not overcomplicate them.
    Availability
    Depends entirely on rainfall — supply swings week to week
    Storage tip
    Paper, never plastic. Brush, don't wash. 2–4°C, use within three days.

    Price will move 40% in a fortnight. Write them onto the menu as 'wild mushroom' and you can keep cooking when the porcini stop coming.

  • Grapes

    Season
    September – October
    Best regions
    Continental Croatia, Northern Italy, Rhône, Rhine valley
    How chefs are using it
    Roasted with poultry, pickled in verjus, or pressed for an acid component instead of vinegar.
    Availability
    Excellent, cheap at peak
    Storage tip
    On the stem, 4°C, unwashed until service.
  • Sea bass

    Season
    Year round, but firmer and fatter from September
    Best regions
    Adriatic, Aegean, Atlantic coast
    How chefs are using it
    Whole over embers, or cured briefly for a cold starter.
    Availability
    Consistent — wild supply improves after the summer tourist peak
    Storage tip
    Ice, belly down, drained. Change the ice daily.
  • Pumpkin

    Season
    Late September – January
    Best regions
    Slavonia, Styria, Loire
    How chefs are using it
    Wait. Roast whole once the flesh has dried out a little in storage.
    Availability
    Early stock is available but underripe
    Storage tip
    Cool, dry, off the floor. Whole pumpkins hold for months.

    The first pumpkins of the year are a tourist trap for chefs. Buy them in October.

What to leave alone this month

  • Asparagus of any origin — if it's on offer in September it has flown a long way.
  • Stone fruit after the middle of the month. Texture goes first, then everything else.
  • Truffle. It exists, it's expensive, and it will be twice as good in six weeks.

One practical note on ordering: September is when suppliers start rebuilding their books after summer. It's the best month of the year to have a proper conversation with a grower about what you want in spring. They have time in September. They will not have time in December.

#in season#september#produce#mushrooms

Sources & further reading

Facts were researched from the public sources listed above and rewritten in savamander’s own words. No paragraphs are reproduced from other publications. Commentary marked as Sava’s take is opinion, not reporting. Facts last checked 29 August 2026.

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